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Asulkan Cabin Trip Feb 2017

Asulkan Cabin Trip Feb 2017

A small group of us headed up to spend 5 days of this year’s reading week at the Asulkan Cabin. It was a slog in as always, but everybody made it up eventually. Matt and I were somewhat eager, and after a quick rest we went went out for a quick sunset lap on the seven steps.

The whole cabin ended up getting up early the next morning and went out to watch the sunrise and hit stuff before the sun came out. We were rewarded with some pretty sweet views.

Heathcott, Matt and I headed up the Youngs headwall to go look at skiing forever young. Sweet views off the top, including the illecillewaet glacier and a great ski down the line.

Stoked on the day, we had an excellent evening, and made plans to head back out for the same sort of thing the next morning, which would be the only other good weather day of the trip. We woke to wind,fog and warm temps. We quickly became aware we were likely to spend the next 3 days mostly chilling in the cabin. Which was a blast because we packed in hella board games!

Spent the rest of the trip hanging out in the hut, playing board games and engaging in unconventional activities near the hut like booter building, cornice cutting and rappelling off small cliffs in tree triangle. Awesome trip, would highly recommend! Book early, it fills up fast.

photos: Lina Gomez, Jesse Kutcher, Mark Dalgliesh
article: Mark Dalgliesh

Trip Report: Winter Break By John Forestell Jan 16/2017

Trip Report: Winter Break By John Forestell Jan 16/2017

Finals had me going crazy. Can’t remember the last time I’ve put so much effort into something so stressful and unrewarding. Was probably the last set of finals…

But they eventually passed and in the blink of an eye I was out in the Columbia Icefields, back in my stomping ground. I hadn’t been out on ice yet this year, had barely even logged some time on my tools dry toolin’. But the leads were all mine and it was time to get going. From the first swing of the trip I was already in a good mood forgetting all about this school stuff we do. We quickly romped up Breidal Veil falls, then went for an afternoon lap of Meltout to get warmed up to the ice and get back in the right space looking forward to some harder line.

The second day we rolled up to weeping wall looking to climb the easy sniveling gully, however there was already a party on it and not wanting to waste anymore of our day finding a different climb we started directly up the left hand side. I wasn’t too stoked to be on the sharp end quite so quickly, but by the end of pitch two, I was psyched and loving it and we continued heading up, the sun even came out for a little bit and gave us some much needed warmth (and it made for a good picture or 5)

Intro to Rock 2016

Intro to Rock 2016

by: John Forestell

My favorite event of the year, and the one that got me into rock climbing in the first place. It really means so much to me to be able to give back to both the club and the event that changed my life so drastically. Climbing means everything for me, and to share that passion with new members and to show them the world that has entranced me and pushed me to places I would never have dreamed of before means everything to me. That’s why I love intro. (The party is pretty sweet too.)

I drove down to Skaha on the Friday instead of going to the doctors to get my foot x-rayed (only a small dislocated bone, it’s all snug in a climbing shoe, no problem right?) to get some climbing in personally before the inevitable hectic day that was going to occur on Saturday. I met up with Quentin, Evan and Will in the rainy parking lot and we headed off to the Doctors Wall (see? I still went to the doctor…) to climb terrain that wouldn’t be wet from the rain. It was a full day of climbing hard and falling big! Everyone was in project mode and we were all working out the final tweaks to our climbs hoping to put them together sometime soon. I managed to fall off my project on the final move twice this day, Salvation, was being a fickle bitch. Tired and worked we all headed off to sleep in our cars and vans looking forward to the next day.

Saturday morning we were back in the parking lot, but this time with full sunshine and beyond ridiculous outfits, a volunteer’s tradition for the event. I myself was wearing bright red tights, a Hawaiian t-shirt, and a leopard print bucket hat to bring it all together. Scotty arrived shortly after us and we began to doll out all the gear, figure out what walls everyone was going too and we set off to put up the ropes before the masses arrived.

I thought I had a heavy bag with two ropes, my sport climbing rack, and some water. Only to learn that Mike was hauling three ropes along with his extra gear. All the volunteers were giving their full effort and it was great to see! We got to our wall, Go Anywhere, around 930AM and got setting up all the top ropes. By around 1030AM we had 10 ropes up, all we needed was the new members now to get the show on the road!

Slowly people started trickling in from the hike, then more and more, then by the time I knew it we must have had over 75 people at our wall all looking at us with intrigue (not sure if was our weird clothing choices or really interested in learning about climbing). Lina, her trusted Safety Sally sign and I got to teaching everyone the ins and outs of what they needed to know for top roping, from putting on harnesses, stabbing the snowman to make your safety pretzel, to the standard belay technique, along with volunteers moving through the crowd to ensure everyone had it down everyone was quickly ready to get going on the wall.

From 1130AM-4PM not a single rope didn’t have someone climbing on it, even the intimidating crack climb always had a continuous line of people on it. The volunteers killed it, ensuring everyone was climbing safe and often giving great instruction (Aaron was giving 1 on 1 instructions to techniques as they were climbing) although some under dubious aliases (I’m still trying to figure out who this Chon guy was) gave sarcastic instruction (“Going up is generally how I would go about doing that next move, but that’s just me…”). Eventually the day was coming to an end and we got all our members to shuttle some of the gear back to the parking lot and on their way to the campsite for the night, while we took down the ropes. I personally was wanting to get in another burn on my project so I quickly scoured the few remaining, picked out Mike and Kelsey from the crowd and we disappeared back to Doctors Wall to hop on some climbs before the sunlight was gone.

The plan was to warm up before hoping back on Salvation as I hadn’t climbed anything to really warmup during the event, but I took one look at it and just had to get right back on it. By the crux my arms were on fire from the flashpump but I had somehow pulled through it and was on a resting jug looking at the redpoint anchor crux that had foiled me 3 times in the past few weeks. I managed to just barely clip the chains, but it finally went down! Clearly it was the power of bright red tights and leopard print hats that pushed me to the send. I lowered to the ground, beyond psyched on the day, and left straight for the liquor store to celebrate another successful intro!

As I got to the campground I couldn’t believe my eyes. It had never been this packed before, there must have been over 200 members at this year’s event! Everyone was in a great mood as the campfires were burning bright anddrinks were flowing. I’m positive many new friendships for life are made this night, I only need to look among my own friends to realize that. As the night went on the camaraderie continued, expert marshmallows were cooked, more drinks were flowing, van parties were bumping and the live music started going. Wild Son played two killer sets and everyone was dancing and singing well into the night, even a light drizzle couldn’t dampen our spirits as the night went on. I eventually passed out in my car around 2AM but I could hear the sounds of the party going on longer. Waking up to another day of sunshine, people started rolling out of their tents, cars, vans, tarps, and killed it with the whole cleanup. By the time I left the campground at 1030AM it was looking spotless and somehow we managed to keep our reputation intact for another year. Many people battled fiercely with their hangovers, while some of us somehow went to go battle with more climbs. I’m looking forward to more of the climbing trips with the club this year, to see who’s new and has got the climbing bug from intro!